Actions:
-Water
-Changed clone tray water
VEG
Water
pH 5.8
~15 gal
HPS Veg isn't wilting as it usually would in square pots, except with the trees that weren't trimmed and cloned from, which leads me to believe that less moisture is absorbed from the roots following a heavy trimming. This would also lend more credence to the idea that trimming any foliage will actually result in a decrease in the overall metabolic processes of the plant. Trimming, therefore, must be timed precisely to allow for adequate recovery times, especially during pre-flowering.
MH Veg is progressing better than I had initially hoped. Branches are noticeable thicker, with even growth all around and consistent vertical growth, albeit a little slower than HPS. There was a possibility that MH, at 750 watts, was actually a major bottleneck in my production, but so far this theory has been dispelled by the progress of these plants. There is a fair degree of certainty that the bottleneck was attributed to pot size, as that is the only major difference between HPS and MH at this point. PW Lights and small square pots would initially show promise, but would stagnate while still under MH, producing skinnier branches, along with less desirable clones. Coupled with reckless and mistimed trimming in veg and bloom, root-bound pots would be a major reason as to why yields have been consistently low.
MIDDLE
Water
pH 5.9
~19 gal
Steady calyx development into colas. Vertical growth has nearly halted completely throughout the room. Most branches still haven't reached second level trellis. GG without SCROG, although boosted, seems to have shown the most vertical growth, as expected. I'll have to compare the yield of this individual tree with the Abusive in the back left corner to determine if SCROG produced any positive results; this Abusive was similar to GG in width, although GG had to be boosted to match in height.
Considering how the GG has developed, it would probably be better with future rotations to contain height below the first trellis upon transplanting into bloom without SCROG. All other variables considered, SCROG could actually hurt yields. In the past, when yields were higher without the use of trellis', branches were allowed to stretch horizontally, allowing for light penetration to the lower half of the canopy. Healthy development in bottom to mid colas was actually a benefit to achieving higher yields. For now I can only observe the differences in yields between the Middle and Master, but I intend to use the trellis in the Master as more of a support structure rather than a growth regulator.
MASTER
Water
pH 6.0
~15 gal
Bubba has ripened faster than all the other strains, which may warrant an early harvest. One GG in particular, however, hasn't developed at the same rate as all the other trees, and may actually need to be harvested earlier than it should for the sake of sticking to the schedule for the entire room. Hopefully this tree ripens fast enough over this coming weekend to meet quality standards. Abusive looks like it's deteriorating as well, and probably needs to be cut down early.
This room is a disaster. Powdery mildew, inconsistent growth, and the overall derelict appearance of the plants are all going to contribute to a shitty harvest. I'll have to spray fungicide again, and aggressively so, which might hurt the quality even further. I'll also be considering harvesting using a hydrogen peroxide bath to wash as much mildew off as possible. I'll also be flushing this room for the rest of the rotation.
Air Circulation
Proper air circulation involves using fans with adequate CFM ratings relative to the volume of the grow area to displace stagnant, warm, or humid air and replace it with fresh air. It was conceived that displacing hot air and pulling cooler air was necessary simply for temperature control, but the reasons behind it are actually biological.
The stomata on the leaves function as a way for the plant to absorb CO2 and oxygen while dispersing water vapor as a waste product in a process called transpiration, at which point the plant will draw more water from the roots. The stomata will behave according to the conditions of the plant and its surroundings. With a bright light and enough moisture available through the roots, the stomata will become dilated, allowing for more CO2 and oxygen to be absorbed. As the soil becomes dry, the stomata will close to preserve water, thereby halting photosynthesis. With too much water (overwatering) the stomata will dilate to release as much water vapor as possible, but at a rate that is dangerous to the plant's survival and development.
As the stomata releases water vapor as a waste product, this waste must be displaced from the room via dehumidifiers and inline fans. If the air becomes too thick with water vapor released from the stomata, the plant will have less access to essential CO2 and oxygen, which will disrupt photosynthesis depending on the stage of the grow. This is generally offset through the use of dehumidifiers and inline fans.
Oscillating fans present an interesting challenge. Placing these fans too close to the plants will cause "wind burns," where leaves become damaged through constant air being blown onto them. Oscillating fans would ideally be placed to gently circulate air around and above and canopy to keep the air from becoming stagnant.
Calculating the amount of CFM needed involves basic math. The Middle room will serve as an example here:
Volume: 10' x 10' x 12' = 1200 cubic feet
Adequate extraction time is about 3 minutes:
1200/3 = 400 CFM
Given a standard 6" inline fan provides 400 CFM, one should be adequate for a room of this size, but there are also other variables to consider. The number of lights, active/passive intake, use of carbon filters, and CO2 enrichment are all factors that should be included in determining a final CFM requirement, although a general rule of thumb is to always provide more CFM than required regardless of the situation.
In the case of the Master, with a requirement of 750 CFM, two 400 CFM exhaust fans with an active intake should be able to adequately circulate the air. The only foreseeable problem would be humidity, which can easily be offset with proper placement of oscillating fans and dehumidifiers.
Wednesday, December 9, 2015
Monday, December 7, 2015
Watering Intervals, Keeping Height Consistent, Trimming
Actions:
-Feed
-Fungicide
-Rearrange MH veg
VEG
300ml base
~15gal, little runoff
Top branches on HPS Veg are showing healthy growth, but lower branches don't seem to be going anywhere. I won't trim them for now because they could benefit me when they're put into the Master. Not much vertical growth except on the trees that weren't trimmed, although it's starting to pick up a little more. Recovery time seems to be average (about a week) from trimming.
MH Veg had to be rearranged. I'm down to 14 trees, which should be still be enough even without plants from T5 to compensate for the shortage. I believe there's enough foliage to cover an entire 4-light canopy, but this largely depends on their development over the next four weeks.
The Bubba clone tray, with the exception of maybe one or two clones, seems to be a lost cause due to mildew. Interestingly, The clones from last week are looking healthier than most of the others. I suspect that the use of plugs over cubes, generous use of Clonex, and more developed cuttings all played a factor, although it's too soon to say if they'll make it. They should be rooted later this week or early next week.
MASTER
300ml base
150ml Terpinator
150ml Overdrive
~15 gal, moderate runoff
Aggressive fungicide with focus on Bubba
Yield doesn't seem to be as hopeless as I previously thought, but it's still relatively low. Some of the colas from the middle of the canopy are looking the way they were intended, with natural calyxes and a cone shape. The production in the Master will still depend on the Bubba, but at least other strains aren't as hopeless.
MIDDLE
300ml base
150ml Terpinator
2 tbsp (6 tsp) Big Bud
~20 gal, moderate to heavy runoff
Soil was drier than usual with little condensation from AC, and without continuous operation of dehumidifier. Vertical growth is still slowing down but hasn't stopped completely, with more colas breaching the second level trellis. Other prominent colas are growing too close to the light, and I'm considering bending these branches down. Top colas have started to increase in size in the trees that have stopped vertical growth altogether, despite heavy foliage and slight obstruction from the light.
I procured a decent amount of Big Bud powder and introduced it for the first time here. I took a calculated risk, considering the powder had been slightly exposed to summer heat and winter moisture over the last year and a half. I mixed it according to instructions on the label, which recommended 1.5 tsp per 5 gallons. At 20 gallons this would equate to 6 tsp, or 2 tbsp, although I measured slightly less-than-level tablespoons. in addition to breaking up any clumps in the bag, in case the powder has indeed become toxic.
Powdery mildew for the most part hasn't returned in most of the trees except for the Bubba in the back of the room. It would seem that the lower humidity has kept the spread at bay as expected. I will have to continue applying fungicide for preventative purposes, but less aggressively.
Watering Intervals
Rule of thumb dictates that the soil should only be watered after the soil becomes relatively dry, but there are conflicting opinions about what "relatively dry" means. Many say that a soil medium needs to be dry up to one inch from the surface of the top layer of dirt, meaning that I would have to poke each individual pot of dirt to measure moisture.
With regards to coco coir, many say that it should be watered every two days and treated as a hydroponic medium, as coco doesn't break down in the same manner that other soil mediums do. It also has good aeration, especially when perlite is included in the mixture. In my experience with coco and Promix, plants need to be watered every two days, with the exception of newly-transplanted trees that may allow 3-day intervals.
Keeping Consistent Plant Sizes Pre-Bloom
The primary goal in Veg is to keep all the trees level in height, which can be difficult when it comes to strains that have a tendency to grow tall. This is especially true with Indica strains like Abusive, GG, and Sour. Several variables should be considered when dealing with height:
-Proximity of each individual plant to light source
-Growth rates of specific strains
-Pot size
-Foliage density
-Interval between trimming/cloning and transplant
This is given all other variables of the setup stay constant, including pot-to-light distance, grow space, feeding schedule, and plant size. (Between 4-5 feet at Day One in flower)
Rotating the plants around is an absolute must in Veg. Plants that are closer to the light tend to grow out of control, and even the bigger trees placed on the edges will tend to obstruct the light from adjacent trees. Similar strains should be grown together and trimmed accordingly to focus growth on the top third of the plant. Topping has to be timed precisely to allow adequate lateral growth, and should take place at least one week after cloning, and two weeks before flowering. Ideally, there will be a "menorah" branch formation prior to bloom.
Trimming
Trimming should also be limited to veg only, where growth can be easily manipulated. Avoid leafing and pruning in flower at all costs. It is more beneficial for the plant to absorb as much chlorophyll as it can in bloom through the existing leaves rather than produce new chlorophyll in new leaves. Leafing also disrupts the metabolic balance in the plant, which can induce premature maturation and under consumption of supplemental nutrients. This will result in undersized colas and can even lead to changes in sex. Despite bottom leaves turning yellow, there is a higher advantage in allowing the plant to flower without having to refocus its energy towards healing itself.
-Feed
-Fungicide
-Rearrange MH veg
VEG
300ml base
~15gal, little runoff
Top branches on HPS Veg are showing healthy growth, but lower branches don't seem to be going anywhere. I won't trim them for now because they could benefit me when they're put into the Master. Not much vertical growth except on the trees that weren't trimmed, although it's starting to pick up a little more. Recovery time seems to be average (about a week) from trimming.
MH Veg had to be rearranged. I'm down to 14 trees, which should be still be enough even without plants from T5 to compensate for the shortage. I believe there's enough foliage to cover an entire 4-light canopy, but this largely depends on their development over the next four weeks.
The Bubba clone tray, with the exception of maybe one or two clones, seems to be a lost cause due to mildew. Interestingly, The clones from last week are looking healthier than most of the others. I suspect that the use of plugs over cubes, generous use of Clonex, and more developed cuttings all played a factor, although it's too soon to say if they'll make it. They should be rooted later this week or early next week.
MASTER
300ml base
150ml Terpinator
150ml Overdrive
~15 gal, moderate runoff
Aggressive fungicide with focus on Bubba
Yield doesn't seem to be as hopeless as I previously thought, but it's still relatively low. Some of the colas from the middle of the canopy are looking the way they were intended, with natural calyxes and a cone shape. The production in the Master will still depend on the Bubba, but at least other strains aren't as hopeless.
MIDDLE
300ml base
150ml Terpinator
2 tbsp (6 tsp) Big Bud
~20 gal, moderate to heavy runoff
Soil was drier than usual with little condensation from AC, and without continuous operation of dehumidifier. Vertical growth is still slowing down but hasn't stopped completely, with more colas breaching the second level trellis. Other prominent colas are growing too close to the light, and I'm considering bending these branches down. Top colas have started to increase in size in the trees that have stopped vertical growth altogether, despite heavy foliage and slight obstruction from the light.
I procured a decent amount of Big Bud powder and introduced it for the first time here. I took a calculated risk, considering the powder had been slightly exposed to summer heat and winter moisture over the last year and a half. I mixed it according to instructions on the label, which recommended 1.5 tsp per 5 gallons. At 20 gallons this would equate to 6 tsp, or 2 tbsp, although I measured slightly less-than-level tablespoons. in addition to breaking up any clumps in the bag, in case the powder has indeed become toxic.
Powdery mildew for the most part hasn't returned in most of the trees except for the Bubba in the back of the room. It would seem that the lower humidity has kept the spread at bay as expected. I will have to continue applying fungicide for preventative purposes, but less aggressively.
Watering Intervals
Rule of thumb dictates that the soil should only be watered after the soil becomes relatively dry, but there are conflicting opinions about what "relatively dry" means. Many say that a soil medium needs to be dry up to one inch from the surface of the top layer of dirt, meaning that I would have to poke each individual pot of dirt to measure moisture.
With regards to coco coir, many say that it should be watered every two days and treated as a hydroponic medium, as coco doesn't break down in the same manner that other soil mediums do. It also has good aeration, especially when perlite is included in the mixture. In my experience with coco and Promix, plants need to be watered every two days, with the exception of newly-transplanted trees that may allow 3-day intervals.
Keeping Consistent Plant Sizes Pre-Bloom
The primary goal in Veg is to keep all the trees level in height, which can be difficult when it comes to strains that have a tendency to grow tall. This is especially true with Indica strains like Abusive, GG, and Sour. Several variables should be considered when dealing with height:
-Proximity of each individual plant to light source
-Growth rates of specific strains
-Pot size
-Foliage density
-Interval between trimming/cloning and transplant
This is given all other variables of the setup stay constant, including pot-to-light distance, grow space, feeding schedule, and plant size. (Between 4-5 feet at Day One in flower)
Rotating the plants around is an absolute must in Veg. Plants that are closer to the light tend to grow out of control, and even the bigger trees placed on the edges will tend to obstruct the light from adjacent trees. Similar strains should be grown together and trimmed accordingly to focus growth on the top third of the plant. Topping has to be timed precisely to allow adequate lateral growth, and should take place at least one week after cloning, and two weeks before flowering. Ideally, there will be a "menorah" branch formation prior to bloom.
Trimming
Trimming should also be limited to veg only, where growth can be easily manipulated. Avoid leafing and pruning in flower at all costs. It is more beneficial for the plant to absorb as much chlorophyll as it can in bloom through the existing leaves rather than produce new chlorophyll in new leaves. Leafing also disrupts the metabolic balance in the plant, which can induce premature maturation and under consumption of supplemental nutrients. This will result in undersized colas and can even lead to changes in sex. Despite bottom leaves turning yellow, there is a higher advantage in allowing the plant to flower without having to refocus its energy towards healing itself.
Friday, December 4, 2015
Harvesting and Curing
Actions:
-Water
-Fungicide everything
-Replaced water in clone trays
VEG
Water
pH 5.9
Late feed
The older Phantom clones are starting to show more roots, but most of the roots are coming from the Abusive and GSC. Some leaves on the Phantom are yellowing, but there seems to be enough rooted for T5 to be on schedule for a more than adequate rotation. There are also roots appearing on the stem above the rooting cubes, which is a definite sign of improvement compared to previous trays. Mildew has infected the Bubba tray as expected despite heavy saturation of fungicide. I am considering not using Bubba at all for upcoming rotations. A gel-like substance has formed at the bottom of the cubes as well, which I can only explain as waste product from plant development, although this could also be attributed to lack of aeration between the cubes; this type of thing wasn't a concern with the plugs.
HPS Veg wasn't as wilted again. New heads are sprouting from branches after topping, which is a good indicator of steady growth. I'm a little concerned about the lower branches not getting enough light, so I'll either have to clone a few more or just throw them away. I'll observe their growth more closely over the weekend to determine what I need to do next week.
MH Veg is growing well despite my concerns about overwatering. I'm tempted to top some of them, but I have to wait until the Master is cut down.
MASTER
Water
pH 5.9
Early feed
More white pistils and a slight increase in the underdeveloped colas, which is a strong indicator of a recovery from whatever happened to this room over the last two weeks. I still suspect an underwhelming yield.
MIDDLE
Water
pH 5.9
Dark feed
Humidity seems to be lower at this stage of flowering. AC condenser collected about 2-3 gallons over the past two days, while the dehumidifier ran almost a full day after the last feed. Vertical growth hasn't fully stopped yet, while calyxes are starting to form colas.
It's not certain if SCROG was a mistake here. In the plants that were bent over, more of the canopy seems filled and lush, with at least two heads per square in the trellis. Vertical growth almost surpassed the second level trellis as well. The trees that weren't SCROG'd seem to be more spaced out, and perhaps may even yield less considering their proximity to the lights. SCROG'd colas are slightly smaller than their un-SCROG'd counterparts, so it's difficult to say which method worked better. There also seems to be overgrowth underneath the canopy. I've refrained from trimming until vertical growth completely stops.
HARVESTING AND CURING
The Master is scheduled to be harvested in a couple of weeks, so it's important to review proper trimming and curing techniques. After years of experimenting with different methods of trimming and drying, I've opted to cut off as many leaves as possible at harvest rather than at point of sale. It's said that chlorophyll from the leaves is fed back into the colas during the drying process, which affects smell, taste and potency. It also adds moisture to the buds, which would explain why the last harvest, during which the buds were trimmed bare of any leaves, dried up faster than previous harvests.
Buds should have below 15% moisture to prevent fungal growth, and about 10-12% moisture for optimum quality. Finished product tends to actually increase in quality over time as moisture becomes uniform throughout the jar, although this also involves airing out the jars over the course of a week or two to "sweat" out excess moisture. As moisture gravitates towards the bottom of the jars, the product needs to be poured out and "fluffed" for a period of time and then placed back into the jars for a uniform look and feel to the buds.
Some of this can be tricky when faced with strict sale deadlines and looming overhead expenses, and proper techniques sometimes have to be compromised for sales. My current schedule gives me two full weeks from harvest to sale. Drying the buds usually takes anywhere between 4-7 days, while I'll have about another week to sell at least two pounds to cover overhead expenses. I've been fortunate enough to sell an adequate amount of product within the first two days of curing to cover those expenses, but without proper curing with low yields, lower quality product, or saturated markets, I need to be very cautious about curing.
Preserving weight while maintaining proper moisture levels hasn't been too much of a challenge, but storage, even if only for a couple of days, can have dramatic effects on the product if done improperly, as was the case with the True OG from the 4.5 harvest. Jars have to be cleaned thoroughly and buds have to be aired out sufficiently while awaiting sale. Daily maintenance should include a fluffing routine during pre-sale periods.
-Water
-Fungicide everything
-Replaced water in clone trays
VEG
Water
pH 5.9
Late feed
The older Phantom clones are starting to show more roots, but most of the roots are coming from the Abusive and GSC. Some leaves on the Phantom are yellowing, but there seems to be enough rooted for T5 to be on schedule for a more than adequate rotation. There are also roots appearing on the stem above the rooting cubes, which is a definite sign of improvement compared to previous trays. Mildew has infected the Bubba tray as expected despite heavy saturation of fungicide. I am considering not using Bubba at all for upcoming rotations. A gel-like substance has formed at the bottom of the cubes as well, which I can only explain as waste product from plant development, although this could also be attributed to lack of aeration between the cubes; this type of thing wasn't a concern with the plugs.
HPS Veg wasn't as wilted again. New heads are sprouting from branches after topping, which is a good indicator of steady growth. I'm a little concerned about the lower branches not getting enough light, so I'll either have to clone a few more or just throw them away. I'll observe their growth more closely over the weekend to determine what I need to do next week.
MH Veg is growing well despite my concerns about overwatering. I'm tempted to top some of them, but I have to wait until the Master is cut down.
MASTER
Water
pH 5.9
Early feed
More white pistils and a slight increase in the underdeveloped colas, which is a strong indicator of a recovery from whatever happened to this room over the last two weeks. I still suspect an underwhelming yield.
MIDDLE
Water
pH 5.9
Dark feed
Humidity seems to be lower at this stage of flowering. AC condenser collected about 2-3 gallons over the past two days, while the dehumidifier ran almost a full day after the last feed. Vertical growth hasn't fully stopped yet, while calyxes are starting to form colas.
It's not certain if SCROG was a mistake here. In the plants that were bent over, more of the canopy seems filled and lush, with at least two heads per square in the trellis. Vertical growth almost surpassed the second level trellis as well. The trees that weren't SCROG'd seem to be more spaced out, and perhaps may even yield less considering their proximity to the lights. SCROG'd colas are slightly smaller than their un-SCROG'd counterparts, so it's difficult to say which method worked better. There also seems to be overgrowth underneath the canopy. I've refrained from trimming until vertical growth completely stops.
HARVESTING AND CURING
The Master is scheduled to be harvested in a couple of weeks, so it's important to review proper trimming and curing techniques. After years of experimenting with different methods of trimming and drying, I've opted to cut off as many leaves as possible at harvest rather than at point of sale. It's said that chlorophyll from the leaves is fed back into the colas during the drying process, which affects smell, taste and potency. It also adds moisture to the buds, which would explain why the last harvest, during which the buds were trimmed bare of any leaves, dried up faster than previous harvests.
Buds should have below 15% moisture to prevent fungal growth, and about 10-12% moisture for optimum quality. Finished product tends to actually increase in quality over time as moisture becomes uniform throughout the jar, although this also involves airing out the jars over the course of a week or two to "sweat" out excess moisture. As moisture gravitates towards the bottom of the jars, the product needs to be poured out and "fluffed" for a period of time and then placed back into the jars for a uniform look and feel to the buds.
Some of this can be tricky when faced with strict sale deadlines and looming overhead expenses, and proper techniques sometimes have to be compromised for sales. My current schedule gives me two full weeks from harvest to sale. Drying the buds usually takes anywhere between 4-7 days, while I'll have about another week to sell at least two pounds to cover overhead expenses. I've been fortunate enough to sell an adequate amount of product within the first two days of curing to cover those expenses, but without proper curing with low yields, lower quality product, or saturated markets, I need to be very cautious about curing.
Preserving weight while maintaining proper moisture levels hasn't been too much of a challenge, but storage, even if only for a couple of days, can have dramatic effects on the product if done improperly, as was the case with the True OG from the 4.5 harvest. Jars have to be cleaned thoroughly and buds have to be aired out sufficiently while awaiting sale. Daily maintenance should include a fluffing routine during pre-sale periods.
Thursday, December 3, 2015
Terpinator, Big Bud, and NPK
Actions:
-Nutrient feed
-Adjusted AC timer in Master (+1 hr)
VEG
300 ml Base nutrients
1000-1100 ppm
pH 5.9
Late feed
About 18 gallons
HPS Veg wasn't as wilted as earlier watering days, which is interesting considering they were in recovery from trimming and cloning. The trees that weren't trimmed were actually more wilted than the others. There may have been more water available since the drain bucket was nearly filled to the top, but it is possible that trees with less foliage require less water. This could be attributed to the idea that with less foliage, photosynthesis is taking place at a lower rate. If this holds true, lights should actually be raised slightly following a trim to compensate for loss of calcium and other nutrients that are lost during photosynthesis. If not, a feed is absolutely necessary to compensate for any nutrient loss post-trimming.
MH Veg is still produced desired results. I will postpone topping until plants are ready for HPS, since vertical growth tends to be dramatic during the first weeks of HPS. Keeping the heads of the plant level with each other without topping is tricky, but with adequate spacing and constant rearranging, I should be able to transfer them to HPS without any issues.
CLONES
Growth in the older trays seems stagnant except for GSC and Abusive. It's possible that the Phantom clones were actually too weak to root quickly, although I'll have to remove the cubes from the trays and examine them closer tomorrow. Nevertheless, if the newer trays root within the next two weeks as they should, the process is still keeping to the schedule for transplanting to T5. I'm looking forward to getting these newer clones started, as they are more desirable and marketable strains.
MASTER
300 ml Base nutrients
150 ml Terpinator
150 ml Overdrive
Estimated 1200-1400 ppm
pH 5.9
Early feed
About 18 gallons
Trees are ripening as expected. If the canopy had been fuller, Bubba could have compensated for the low yields of the other strains, but it seems like it still won't be enough. I'm still considering other reasons why the Master has turned out the way it has.
One possible cause of the low yields is the use of wider pots. Transplanting from PW Mids to these pots could have left a gap in the bottom of the pot. I also didn't need a lot of soil to transplant to these pots, which means that there's a smaller volume of root space. These pots tend to dry quicker than PW 5-gals, which could also be a factor. With the wider mouth, I'm forced to water a wider surface, and perhaps there is an inconsistent mix of nutrients within the soil given that my nozzle hits a narrow area. The only way to know is to completely flush them out, which is problematic since standard flushing practice requires 3 times the water needed to fill the pot. Given that Phosphoload was added in this rotation and ripening is practically ahead of schedule, I think I can afford to spend an entire week or more flushing this room out before harvest.
It's also likely that overfeeding may have occurred, which would also necessitate a thorough flushing. I'll be able to better ascertain what really happened here while I observe how the plants react from this flush. I'll be looking at changes in the pistils, leaves, and top colas. If the plants show signs of returning to normal development, overfeeding would have likely been one of the primary reasons for the low yield.
MIDDLE
300ml Base nutrients
150ml Terpinator
1000-1100 ppm
pH 5.9
About 18 gallons
Dark feed
Vertical growth is beginning to stall, although I counted more branches breaching the second level trellis. SCROG hasn't had the same adverse effect that it had in the Master, which is fortunate considering these trees were seemingly weaker on Day One. Powdery mildew is still being held at bay through fungicide and possibly because of the dehumidifier and decent air flow through the canopy. The Abusive tree in the back corner has gotten taller, and I'm sure that the top cola will be too close to the light. If I'm going to bend the stalk to prevent overgrowth, now would be the opportune time. I'm refraining from trimming excess branches so as not to hurt the plant development until next week.
Soil was drier than usual, but I was cautious about overwatering two days ago. I was generous with the feed today. I was hesitant to use Terpinator, but decided to use it considering it was used throughout my 4.5 harvest.
TERPINATOR AND BIG BUD
Terpinator is a 0-0-4 supplement, said to increase terpinoids and stimulate growth of essential plant oils. The only thing I've noticed is that it enhances the odors of the plants, although it seemed to have favorable results in the 4.5 harvest. It's hard to say what else it does exactly, if anything, and whether or not it is actually useful, but increasing the odor would theoretically increase market value since buyers are focused on superficial elements of the product like smell and taste.
One thing to note about Terpinator is its concentration of K. Potassium is a catalyst for the synthesis of carbohydrates, metabolic processes, and overall consumption of other nutrients. A potassium deficiency will result in yellow/orange leaves and lower yields, as the plant will not be able to metabolize all the nutrients it receives, including light. A toxicity, on the other hand, will lessen the absorption of calcium, magnesium, zinc, and iron. It's interesting to note that a calcium toxicity will affect potassium absorption in the same manner, so a balance between calcium and potassium must be achieved along with other nutrients.
Given success in the past using equal parts of Advanced Nutrient's 3-part base, I will be sticking to that with regards to NPK, as it should already give me the desired NPK ratio throughout veg and bloom. AN suggests adding Voodoo Juice, Big Bud, B-52, and Overdrive in bloom, but without calculating NPK ratios it's hard to determine if these supplements, with the exception of Overdrive, will do anything to increase yields cost-effectively.
Big Bud in particular functions the same way as Terpinator, but includes half the amount of phosphorus as potassium. I may have used Big Bud once in the 4.5 harvest, but I haven't considered it a necessity for strong yields. It is also very expensive, at $230 for 2.5 kg. Since it's recommended use is through Week 2-4, one tablespoon per feed at moderate usage would equate to 120 grams per rotation, which would allow me 20 rotations. Not bad, but if it does nothing, or has adverse effects on the yield or quality, it'll be a significant loss that will be compounded by small profits from lower yields in the future.
-Nutrient feed
-Adjusted AC timer in Master (+1 hr)
VEG
300 ml Base nutrients
1000-1100 ppm
pH 5.9
Late feed
About 18 gallons
HPS Veg wasn't as wilted as earlier watering days, which is interesting considering they were in recovery from trimming and cloning. The trees that weren't trimmed were actually more wilted than the others. There may have been more water available since the drain bucket was nearly filled to the top, but it is possible that trees with less foliage require less water. This could be attributed to the idea that with less foliage, photosynthesis is taking place at a lower rate. If this holds true, lights should actually be raised slightly following a trim to compensate for loss of calcium and other nutrients that are lost during photosynthesis. If not, a feed is absolutely necessary to compensate for any nutrient loss post-trimming.
MH Veg is still produced desired results. I will postpone topping until plants are ready for HPS, since vertical growth tends to be dramatic during the first weeks of HPS. Keeping the heads of the plant level with each other without topping is tricky, but with adequate spacing and constant rearranging, I should be able to transfer them to HPS without any issues.
CLONES
Growth in the older trays seems stagnant except for GSC and Abusive. It's possible that the Phantom clones were actually too weak to root quickly, although I'll have to remove the cubes from the trays and examine them closer tomorrow. Nevertheless, if the newer trays root within the next two weeks as they should, the process is still keeping to the schedule for transplanting to T5. I'm looking forward to getting these newer clones started, as they are more desirable and marketable strains.
MASTER
300 ml Base nutrients
150 ml Terpinator
150 ml Overdrive
Estimated 1200-1400 ppm
pH 5.9
Early feed
About 18 gallons
Trees are ripening as expected. If the canopy had been fuller, Bubba could have compensated for the low yields of the other strains, but it seems like it still won't be enough. I'm still considering other reasons why the Master has turned out the way it has.
One possible cause of the low yields is the use of wider pots. Transplanting from PW Mids to these pots could have left a gap in the bottom of the pot. I also didn't need a lot of soil to transplant to these pots, which means that there's a smaller volume of root space. These pots tend to dry quicker than PW 5-gals, which could also be a factor. With the wider mouth, I'm forced to water a wider surface, and perhaps there is an inconsistent mix of nutrients within the soil given that my nozzle hits a narrow area. The only way to know is to completely flush them out, which is problematic since standard flushing practice requires 3 times the water needed to fill the pot. Given that Phosphoload was added in this rotation and ripening is practically ahead of schedule, I think I can afford to spend an entire week or more flushing this room out before harvest.
It's also likely that overfeeding may have occurred, which would also necessitate a thorough flushing. I'll be able to better ascertain what really happened here while I observe how the plants react from this flush. I'll be looking at changes in the pistils, leaves, and top colas. If the plants show signs of returning to normal development, overfeeding would have likely been one of the primary reasons for the low yield.
MIDDLE
300ml Base nutrients
150ml Terpinator
1000-1100 ppm
pH 5.9
About 18 gallons
Dark feed
Vertical growth is beginning to stall, although I counted more branches breaching the second level trellis. SCROG hasn't had the same adverse effect that it had in the Master, which is fortunate considering these trees were seemingly weaker on Day One. Powdery mildew is still being held at bay through fungicide and possibly because of the dehumidifier and decent air flow through the canopy. The Abusive tree in the back corner has gotten taller, and I'm sure that the top cola will be too close to the light. If I'm going to bend the stalk to prevent overgrowth, now would be the opportune time. I'm refraining from trimming excess branches so as not to hurt the plant development until next week.
Soil was drier than usual, but I was cautious about overwatering two days ago. I was generous with the feed today. I was hesitant to use Terpinator, but decided to use it considering it was used throughout my 4.5 harvest.
TERPINATOR AND BIG BUD
Terpinator is a 0-0-4 supplement, said to increase terpinoids and stimulate growth of essential plant oils. The only thing I've noticed is that it enhances the odors of the plants, although it seemed to have favorable results in the 4.5 harvest. It's hard to say what else it does exactly, if anything, and whether or not it is actually useful, but increasing the odor would theoretically increase market value since buyers are focused on superficial elements of the product like smell and taste.
One thing to note about Terpinator is its concentration of K. Potassium is a catalyst for the synthesis of carbohydrates, metabolic processes, and overall consumption of other nutrients. A potassium deficiency will result in yellow/orange leaves and lower yields, as the plant will not be able to metabolize all the nutrients it receives, including light. A toxicity, on the other hand, will lessen the absorption of calcium, magnesium, zinc, and iron. It's interesting to note that a calcium toxicity will affect potassium absorption in the same manner, so a balance between calcium and potassium must be achieved along with other nutrients.
Given success in the past using equal parts of Advanced Nutrient's 3-part base, I will be sticking to that with regards to NPK, as it should already give me the desired NPK ratio throughout veg and bloom. AN suggests adding Voodoo Juice, Big Bud, B-52, and Overdrive in bloom, but without calculating NPK ratios it's hard to determine if these supplements, with the exception of Overdrive, will do anything to increase yields cost-effectively.
Big Bud in particular functions the same way as Terpinator, but includes half the amount of phosphorus as potassium. I may have used Big Bud once in the 4.5 harvest, but I haven't considered it a necessity for strong yields. It is also very expensive, at $230 for 2.5 kg. Since it's recommended use is through Week 2-4, one tablespoon per feed at moderate usage would equate to 120 grams per rotation, which would allow me 20 rotations. Not bad, but if it does nothing, or has adverse effects on the yield or quality, it'll be a significant loss that will be compounded by small profits from lower yields in the future.
Wednesday, December 2, 2015
The Phosphoload Dilemma, Flowering Phases
Actions:
-Trimmed net cups, favoring top half of trees
-Positioned net cups for increased light distribution under T5
-Rearranged some PW mid pots under HPS
-Cleaned out garage, procured some equipment and tools
CLONES
The clones I made yesterday are standing straight without any signs of stress so far. I poured some of the extra cloning water in the trays before I closed all the lids, which is pH balanced and infused with a rooting supplement.
VEG
All the plants that were trimmed seem to be in recovery, although leaves look noticeably more pronounced than yesterday. This is probably due to the availability of water in the pots, and I suspect that tomorrow they will be drooping as they were yesterday due to lack of water.
Interestingly, a few of the trees under MH look just as healthy, if not healthier, than the trees under HPS. Considering that the trees under MH were put in a few weeks after those under HPS, it would seem that my theory about using PW mid pots would hold true here. I'm still unsure about when I want to top them, but I will probably top them as early as one month before bloom, given that my newly made clones have a high rate of rooting.
Rearranging the plants under HPS will be crucial in the next few weeks. It is imperative that any superfluous branches are trimmed this week to allow healing time and growth of major branches before they're bloomed.
MASTER
Powdery mildew is back with a vengeance yet again, and I'm considering cutting out Bubba from the rotation altogether to prevent any future problems with PM. In the last harvest, I yielded about two ounces of Bubba that I haven't sold for fear of rejection due to mildew. Mildew on bubba, and in general, has been a problem since closing L's house two years ago.
Bud formation seems to be definite right now, but I'm not expecting much from this harvest. The colas aren't forming as big as I'd hoped for, and they've also begun ripening. It's possible that I may have introduced Overdrive too early, as well as Phosphoload. It's becoming obvious now that implementing SCROG while using Phosphoload had disastrous results in the Master. Not only was there insufficient vertical growth, but Phosphoload seemed to cause inconsistent bud formations throughout the room. From an economic standpoint, Bubba seems to be the most appealing choice of strain using this method since it doesn't rely on vertical growth and seems to bud adequately regardless. I estimate that this room will yield nearly 3 lbs, but it will depend entirely on how well the Bubba yields. The other strains, including Abusive despite its performance in the past, will not have have a substantial impact on the final number.
MIDDLE
Powdery mildew, again, has gravitated towards Bubba, although most of the other trees remain unaffected by the spread. Much of the canopy is sitting evenly, with sub branches not quite reaching the height I hoped for. Vertical growth has halted for the most part, and the buds have begun to sprout. Being that it's in the middle of its third week in bloom, I will refrain from using Phosphoload here.
THE PHOSPHOLOAD DILEMMA
Research suggests that Phosphoload, Bushload, and other so-called "hardeners" contain harmful, cancer-causing carcinogens. Given my lack of knowledge in chemistry, I can only assume that there is a significant danger if used improperly, as was the case with H's Bushload recipe, where much of his crop produced thick orange hairs that had to be trimmed off, it can be hazardous, but with careful use, it shouldn't be too much of a problem. There are, however, other concerns regarding Phosphoload that should be addressed before using it again.
There is a consensus among people talking about Phosphoload that it halts vertical growth immediately and that it initiates the plant to start producing flowers. In fact, it could be said that it could actually decrease yields due to its nature of speeding the flowering process. Phosphoload, in particular, when used "correctly," speeds up the natural bloom phase to the point that it can ripen a week earlier than originally intended. If this is true, it is understandable that using Phosphoload could actually reduce yields.
Phosphoload is intended for use during Weeks 3-4, and it is important to understand what's happening with the trees during this time. Instead of looking at the bloom phase by the weeks, they should be observed by stages of flowering over an 8-week cycle:
Early-Flowering (Week 1-3)
The initial phase of blooming consists of residual vegetative growth as the plant becomes acclimated to its new environment. This is where most of the vertical growth occurs. Under the proper conditions, the plant will stretch to consume as much light as possible. Calyxes, the actual buds themselves, will begin to form out of the "heads" of the branches along with white pistils, and more so wherever the plant is closest to the light.
Phosphorus is said to play a major role during this period; the total amount of phosphorus absorbed by the plant apparently takes place during the first quarter of its life. Lights should be raised high (about three feet) above the canopy than during the rest of the flowering stage, otherwise a calcium deficiency will develop from the high intensity of the light. This also disproves the theory that giving the most amount of light early will stimulate growth.
Mid-Flowering (Week 4-6)
This is where the entire structure of the plant is set. Vertical growth slows and calyxes form into colas. Any calyxes that haven't received adequate light and favorable growing conditions will stall in development, and colas will be noticeably smaller than desired. Taking into consideration that colas take their full shape during this stage of the process, this is where yield is also decided.
Late-Flowering (Week 7-8)
Colas harden, THC production is at its peak, and pistils will undergo necrosis (turn orange) as the plant reaches full maturity and potency. Colas stop increasing in surface area, but will still continue to gain density slightly. This is where the true quality of the product is decided.
With regards to Phosphoload, it is understandable that using too much of it could reduce yields because the colas haven't had adequate time and nutrients to build on themselves. Phosphoload and other similar products seem to force the plant to essentially "skip" part of the early flowering stage, and perhaps even rush it to late flowering. This could hold true in the Master room during this rotation, where colas weren't fully developed during the application of Phosphoload. Instead, small colas ripened within the following week, and with three more weeks remaining in the cycle, many of the plants seemed to show signs of late flowering, with increased THC production and orange pistils.
It is worth mentioning that Bubba didn't show any unusual signs of deficiencies or toxicities, while Abusive produced smaller colas despite having more than adequate lighting and a wide canopy. It is also possible that the combination of Phosphoload, early Overdrive during Week 4-5, and SCROG was overall detrimental to yield. The last harvest in the Master consisted of Abusive, True OG, and Sour, which yielded a total of 4.5+ lbs. with Phosphoload in Week 4, Overdrive in Week 5-8, and no fucking SCROG. Any detraction from this schedule relative to how the plant seems to progress would probably hurt my yields.
The Ethical Dilemma
Plant growth regulators are used for ornamental plants to keep them shorter for logistical purposes, such as trees grown under power lines. In cannabis, plant growth regulators present easy, cost-effective ways to contain plant growth to optimal sizes with minimal manipulation through SCROG, trimming, topping, FIM, etc. The problem with plant growth regulators is that most of them are banned in the United States, and are generally considered hazardous for crops grown for human consumption. There is no conclusive research to determine if Phosphoload or Bushload make cannabis toxic, but it nevertheless presents an ethical dilemma.
For the business to sustain profitability, quality and yield must go hand-in-hand. A respectable weight-to-light ratio with a low-quality product can result in a surplus, even with solid distribution channels and favorable market conditions. Growing high-quality products at lower yields can still be a sustainable business model given the same conditions, albeit with a considerably higher level of physical and mental strain. From a business standpoint, the pros of using Phosphoload outweigh the cons; when used correctly, Phosphoload can dramatically increase yields while maybe slightly degrading quality. In extreme cases I might have to lower the price by 10-20%, but 5 lbs at $2200 is much better than 3 lbs at $2500, assuming quality is actually compromised, which wouldn't happen in most cases.
On the other hand, using Phosphoload raises ethical questions:
-Do we sacrifice the integrity of our product for the sake of profit?
-Despite the fact that there is still no conclusive data to say that Phosphoload, in particular, is dangerous to people, would it be irresponsible to use it anyway?
-Do we justify the use of plant growth regulators by the simple fact that we need to compete with other growers who use them?
-Is selling cannabis infused with Phosphoload any different from selling cannabis treated with fungicide, miticide, or any other chemicals that could also be considered hazardous for human consumption?
-If higher profits are impossible without compromising the safety of our product, do we go for it anyway?
These are questions that strike at the core of how we intend to operate not only in this industry, but in any industry. In the beginning of my career in cannabis, I would have done whatever was necessary to sustain profit, even at the cost of my own health. But given my experience over the last five years, I am fairly confident in my ability to produce a high quality product that is safe for consumption. This will, however, require an increased investment of time, money, effort, and forethought into keeping all the variables in my operation in equilibrium.
-Trimmed net cups, favoring top half of trees
-Positioned net cups for increased light distribution under T5
-Rearranged some PW mid pots under HPS
-Cleaned out garage, procured some equipment and tools
CLONES
The clones I made yesterday are standing straight without any signs of stress so far. I poured some of the extra cloning water in the trays before I closed all the lids, which is pH balanced and infused with a rooting supplement.
VEG
All the plants that were trimmed seem to be in recovery, although leaves look noticeably more pronounced than yesterday. This is probably due to the availability of water in the pots, and I suspect that tomorrow they will be drooping as they were yesterday due to lack of water.
Interestingly, a few of the trees under MH look just as healthy, if not healthier, than the trees under HPS. Considering that the trees under MH were put in a few weeks after those under HPS, it would seem that my theory about using PW mid pots would hold true here. I'm still unsure about when I want to top them, but I will probably top them as early as one month before bloom, given that my newly made clones have a high rate of rooting.
Rearranging the plants under HPS will be crucial in the next few weeks. It is imperative that any superfluous branches are trimmed this week to allow healing time and growth of major branches before they're bloomed.
MASTER
Powdery mildew is back with a vengeance yet again, and I'm considering cutting out Bubba from the rotation altogether to prevent any future problems with PM. In the last harvest, I yielded about two ounces of Bubba that I haven't sold for fear of rejection due to mildew. Mildew on bubba, and in general, has been a problem since closing L's house two years ago.
Bud formation seems to be definite right now, but I'm not expecting much from this harvest. The colas aren't forming as big as I'd hoped for, and they've also begun ripening. It's possible that I may have introduced Overdrive too early, as well as Phosphoload. It's becoming obvious now that implementing SCROG while using Phosphoload had disastrous results in the Master. Not only was there insufficient vertical growth, but Phosphoload seemed to cause inconsistent bud formations throughout the room. From an economic standpoint, Bubba seems to be the most appealing choice of strain using this method since it doesn't rely on vertical growth and seems to bud adequately regardless. I estimate that this room will yield nearly 3 lbs, but it will depend entirely on how well the Bubba yields. The other strains, including Abusive despite its performance in the past, will not have have a substantial impact on the final number.
MIDDLE
Powdery mildew, again, has gravitated towards Bubba, although most of the other trees remain unaffected by the spread. Much of the canopy is sitting evenly, with sub branches not quite reaching the height I hoped for. Vertical growth has halted for the most part, and the buds have begun to sprout. Being that it's in the middle of its third week in bloom, I will refrain from using Phosphoload here.
THE PHOSPHOLOAD DILEMMA
Research suggests that Phosphoload, Bushload, and other so-called "hardeners" contain harmful, cancer-causing carcinogens. Given my lack of knowledge in chemistry, I can only assume that there is a significant danger if used improperly, as was the case with H's Bushload recipe, where much of his crop produced thick orange hairs that had to be trimmed off, it can be hazardous, but with careful use, it shouldn't be too much of a problem. There are, however, other concerns regarding Phosphoload that should be addressed before using it again.
There is a consensus among people talking about Phosphoload that it halts vertical growth immediately and that it initiates the plant to start producing flowers. In fact, it could be said that it could actually decrease yields due to its nature of speeding the flowering process. Phosphoload, in particular, when used "correctly," speeds up the natural bloom phase to the point that it can ripen a week earlier than originally intended. If this is true, it is understandable that using Phosphoload could actually reduce yields.
Phosphoload is intended for use during Weeks 3-4, and it is important to understand what's happening with the trees during this time. Instead of looking at the bloom phase by the weeks, they should be observed by stages of flowering over an 8-week cycle:
Early-Flowering (Week 1-3)
The initial phase of blooming consists of residual vegetative growth as the plant becomes acclimated to its new environment. This is where most of the vertical growth occurs. Under the proper conditions, the plant will stretch to consume as much light as possible. Calyxes, the actual buds themselves, will begin to form out of the "heads" of the branches along with white pistils, and more so wherever the plant is closest to the light.
Phosphorus is said to play a major role during this period; the total amount of phosphorus absorbed by the plant apparently takes place during the first quarter of its life. Lights should be raised high (about three feet) above the canopy than during the rest of the flowering stage, otherwise a calcium deficiency will develop from the high intensity of the light. This also disproves the theory that giving the most amount of light early will stimulate growth.
Mid-Flowering (Week 4-6)
This is where the entire structure of the plant is set. Vertical growth slows and calyxes form into colas. Any calyxes that haven't received adequate light and favorable growing conditions will stall in development, and colas will be noticeably smaller than desired. Taking into consideration that colas take their full shape during this stage of the process, this is where yield is also decided.
Late-Flowering (Week 7-8)
Colas harden, THC production is at its peak, and pistils will undergo necrosis (turn orange) as the plant reaches full maturity and potency. Colas stop increasing in surface area, but will still continue to gain density slightly. This is where the true quality of the product is decided.
With regards to Phosphoload, it is understandable that using too much of it could reduce yields because the colas haven't had adequate time and nutrients to build on themselves. Phosphoload and other similar products seem to force the plant to essentially "skip" part of the early flowering stage, and perhaps even rush it to late flowering. This could hold true in the Master room during this rotation, where colas weren't fully developed during the application of Phosphoload. Instead, small colas ripened within the following week, and with three more weeks remaining in the cycle, many of the plants seemed to show signs of late flowering, with increased THC production and orange pistils.
It is worth mentioning that Bubba didn't show any unusual signs of deficiencies or toxicities, while Abusive produced smaller colas despite having more than adequate lighting and a wide canopy. It is also possible that the combination of Phosphoload, early Overdrive during Week 4-5, and SCROG was overall detrimental to yield. The last harvest in the Master consisted of Abusive, True OG, and Sour, which yielded a total of 4.5+ lbs. with Phosphoload in Week 4, Overdrive in Week 5-8, and no fucking SCROG. Any detraction from this schedule relative to how the plant seems to progress would probably hurt my yields.
The Ethical Dilemma
Plant growth regulators are used for ornamental plants to keep them shorter for logistical purposes, such as trees grown under power lines. In cannabis, plant growth regulators present easy, cost-effective ways to contain plant growth to optimal sizes with minimal manipulation through SCROG, trimming, topping, FIM, etc. The problem with plant growth regulators is that most of them are banned in the United States, and are generally considered hazardous for crops grown for human consumption. There is no conclusive research to determine if Phosphoload or Bushload make cannabis toxic, but it nevertheless presents an ethical dilemma.
For the business to sustain profitability, quality and yield must go hand-in-hand. A respectable weight-to-light ratio with a low-quality product can result in a surplus, even with solid distribution channels and favorable market conditions. Growing high-quality products at lower yields can still be a sustainable business model given the same conditions, albeit with a considerably higher level of physical and mental strain. From a business standpoint, the pros of using Phosphoload outweigh the cons; when used correctly, Phosphoload can dramatically increase yields while maybe slightly degrading quality. In extreme cases I might have to lower the price by 10-20%, but 5 lbs at $2200 is much better than 3 lbs at $2500, assuming quality is actually compromised, which wouldn't happen in most cases.
On the other hand, using Phosphoload raises ethical questions:
-Do we sacrifice the integrity of our product for the sake of profit?
-Despite the fact that there is still no conclusive data to say that Phosphoload, in particular, is dangerous to people, would it be irresponsible to use it anyway?
-Do we justify the use of plant growth regulators by the simple fact that we need to compete with other growers who use them?
-Is selling cannabis infused with Phosphoload any different from selling cannabis treated with fungicide, miticide, or any other chemicals that could also be considered hazardous for human consumption?
-If higher profits are impossible without compromising the safety of our product, do we go for it anyway?
These are questions that strike at the core of how we intend to operate not only in this industry, but in any industry. In the beginning of my career in cannabis, I would have done whatever was necessary to sustain profit, even at the cost of my own health. But given my experience over the last five years, I am fairly confident in my ability to produce a high quality product that is safe for consumption. This will, however, require an increased investment of time, money, effort, and forethought into keeping all the variables in my operation in equilibrium.
Tuesday, December 1, 2015
Cloning, Notes on SCROG
Actions:
-Final trimming of late veg in preparation for bloom
-Clones of Phantom, Abusive, Bubba, GSC, No-Q
-Water
-Fungicide all
-Added 8 net cups to T5
-Calibrated pH meter (-0.2)
VEG (HPS)
I currently have 16 trees in late veg that could be bloomed instantly, but I still have a couple of weeks until I have to bloom them. Many of the trees are too tall as they have been so I topped all of these trees to stunt vertical growth, trying to preserve as many lower branches as needed. The problem with a few of the trees is that most of the "good" growth is near the top of the tree, while the bottom branches seem to progress inconsistently. This is most likely due to the absence of light in the bottom areas of the canopy. Without the need for cloning, it would seem that they could have been topped once they were placed under the HPS light. For now I will test this theory by topping the next wave of trees once they're put under HPS.
VEG (MH)
Early veg is progressing relatively well, although I had to throw away one. These were trees that were transplanted from net cups to the PW mid pots, which have more soil than the white square pots I used earlier in veg. I'm now certain that transplanting to mid pots is much more effective. Despite the fact that I only have 14 trees for this cycle at the moment, I'm confident that I'll be able to transplant a few of the plants from the T5 to compensate for the shortage. A few of these trees even look like they would be ready to bloom for the Master, but this mainly depends on the progress of the plants in net cups.
VEG (T5)
I have a total of 32 net cups under T5, which includes an assortment of WF (Candyland), Abusive, Bubba, GG, and a Mystery strain which is probably GG as well, although there is a small chance that it is Sour Kush. About half of them were planted about two weeks ago, while the other half were planted this past week. Based on the current schedule, I'm given about another two weeks (from the start of the next bloom) plus eight weeks (full bloom cycle) to get these trees ready for the Master room. Heavy emphasis should be on controlling height and maintaining plant strength, which means I'll have to constantly trim lower leaves throughout the entire T5 cycle. Powdery mildew is returning on the Bubba, but with regular training and application of fungicide I shouldn't have too big of a problem.
CLONES
I've decided to experiment with smaller rockwool "plugs" rather than cubes. Although the number of clones I've been able to make hasn't been much of a concern, getting them to root in time is a real problem. My theory is that with smaller plugs, the roots will become visible sooner. On the other hand, the clones I made two weeks ago are showing promise; a few have already rooted beyond the cubes, and some roots are even coming out of the top of the cubes. Several things worth noting:
-Water was being changed out regularly and left to sit on the tray
-Mostly Phantom, although Abusive and GSC are showing similar results
-Humidity dome was left on the entire time, with the ventilation holes gradually being opened after the first week
-Tray sat on the floor next to the T5, and clones that were towards the back of the tray (furthest from MH) were the first to show roots
-Clone gel was scarce during cloning
-Almost every clone was dipped in a GreenCure solution for mildew eradication
-Some clones showed yellowing on the leaves, prompting me to change the water
-Many clones were skinnier than usual, consisting of bottom branches from this late veg
With this next cloning session, I dipped only a few clones with heavy mildew in a fungicide solution. In hindsight I probably should've dipped them all, but I will keep a close eye on these clones to see if any mildew develops and I'll spray them in necessary. I made mostly Phantom clones, but I also have Abusive, Bubba, No-Q and GSC.
The total amount of clones is more than I've probably ever had. I only need an assortment of 50-60 (20 per room) and I have close to two hundred, if not more. A rooting rate of about 25% is necessary to maintain constant production levels.
MASTER (Start week 7)
Colas are smaller than usual, and attempting to SCROG the overly tall trees did not help production. I moved the fan to circulate air underneath the canopy rather than around it. I also noticed that the AC timer was set to turn on three hours earlier than required, but I doubt this had any huge effect on the production. A major concern, however, is that many of the colas that are getting adequate light are still not showing any major development. I suspect that watering too much could be an issue. Mildew is a constant uphill battle in this room, particularly due to the high number of Bubba trees. Spraying with fungicide only keeps the spread contained, but it isn't eradicating the problem. I suspect that the wider pots I used for this bloom cycle is drying out due to the increased surface area of the soil, thus adding humidity to the room and stimulating mildew growth. For now, I'm going to have to set up the dehumidifier to run constantly, attaching a drainage line to the toilet in the bathroom.
MIDDLE (Start week 3)
Colas have just begun to develop. Vertical growth has stopped for the most part and many of the trees don't reach the second trellis. The density of the canopy is seemingly good for yield, but this may be a problem if mildew spreads inside of the canopy. Fortunately the wall fan is moving the air adequately around the canopy. I was forced to raise the back left corner light to its peak, which means that the trees underneath that light are at an ideal height. It's worth noting that one of those trees is Abusive, and wasn't SCROG'd like most of the other trees. In fact, the GG towards the front of the canopy that wasn't SCROG'd is also showing decent growth, despite the fact that it was an undersized tree that had to be boosted by an extra foot or so. The most heavily SCROG'd trees are under the front right light, and I will watch this area of the canopy closely to examine the effect that the SCROG method has had.
Notes on SCROG
SCROG isn't working for a variety of reasons:
-SCROG requires training throughout veg and the beginning of bloom
-SCROG requires fewer, smaller trees
-SCROG requires that each individual branch is supported or tied down
Without these requirements, attempting SCROG will only hurt my yields. In hindsight, I imagine that without SCROG, I would have tall, albeit fuller, trees with average sized colas regardless of how the trees came in from veg. Most of these trees had 3 or more heads, which would have been enough considering vertical height during the beginning of bloom would have allowed for lower branches to reach the canopy anyway. The concern was that these trees were stripped of lower branches when they first entered bloom, which left me with an inadequate number of cola sites to begin with, but emphasis should be placed on light distribution rather than plant manipulation. Instead of bending the entire tree off to the side and hoping that sub branches will grow out, trees should only be bent outwards from their centers in a "menorah" formation.
Trimming is also a tricky part of SCROG. Most other growers show a canopy of only about one foot thickness, whereas my past heavy yields have been with canopies of about 2-3 feet thickness without SCROG. Considering the size of the trellis/frame, I'm limited to about 9 square feet of surface area of light, but with a thicker canopy I'm able to multiply my yield even further. If I can find an exception to this, it will be with the front right light in the middle room, where there is a high density of top cola sites. I'm refraining from trimming to see if the density of the canopy will show favorable results.
-Final trimming of late veg in preparation for bloom
-Clones of Phantom, Abusive, Bubba, GSC, No-Q
-Water
-Fungicide all
-Added 8 net cups to T5
-Calibrated pH meter (-0.2)
VEG (HPS)
I currently have 16 trees in late veg that could be bloomed instantly, but I still have a couple of weeks until I have to bloom them. Many of the trees are too tall as they have been so I topped all of these trees to stunt vertical growth, trying to preserve as many lower branches as needed. The problem with a few of the trees is that most of the "good" growth is near the top of the tree, while the bottom branches seem to progress inconsistently. This is most likely due to the absence of light in the bottom areas of the canopy. Without the need for cloning, it would seem that they could have been topped once they were placed under the HPS light. For now I will test this theory by topping the next wave of trees once they're put under HPS.
VEG (MH)
Early veg is progressing relatively well, although I had to throw away one. These were trees that were transplanted from net cups to the PW mid pots, which have more soil than the white square pots I used earlier in veg. I'm now certain that transplanting to mid pots is much more effective. Despite the fact that I only have 14 trees for this cycle at the moment, I'm confident that I'll be able to transplant a few of the plants from the T5 to compensate for the shortage. A few of these trees even look like they would be ready to bloom for the Master, but this mainly depends on the progress of the plants in net cups.
VEG (T5)
I have a total of 32 net cups under T5, which includes an assortment of WF (Candyland), Abusive, Bubba, GG, and a Mystery strain which is probably GG as well, although there is a small chance that it is Sour Kush. About half of them were planted about two weeks ago, while the other half were planted this past week. Based on the current schedule, I'm given about another two weeks (from the start of the next bloom) plus eight weeks (full bloom cycle) to get these trees ready for the Master room. Heavy emphasis should be on controlling height and maintaining plant strength, which means I'll have to constantly trim lower leaves throughout the entire T5 cycle. Powdery mildew is returning on the Bubba, but with regular training and application of fungicide I shouldn't have too big of a problem.
CLONES
I've decided to experiment with smaller rockwool "plugs" rather than cubes. Although the number of clones I've been able to make hasn't been much of a concern, getting them to root in time is a real problem. My theory is that with smaller plugs, the roots will become visible sooner. On the other hand, the clones I made two weeks ago are showing promise; a few have already rooted beyond the cubes, and some roots are even coming out of the top of the cubes. Several things worth noting:
-Water was being changed out regularly and left to sit on the tray
-Mostly Phantom, although Abusive and GSC are showing similar results
-Humidity dome was left on the entire time, with the ventilation holes gradually being opened after the first week
-Tray sat on the floor next to the T5, and clones that were towards the back of the tray (furthest from MH) were the first to show roots
-Clone gel was scarce during cloning
-Almost every clone was dipped in a GreenCure solution for mildew eradication
-Some clones showed yellowing on the leaves, prompting me to change the water
-Many clones were skinnier than usual, consisting of bottom branches from this late veg
With this next cloning session, I dipped only a few clones with heavy mildew in a fungicide solution. In hindsight I probably should've dipped them all, but I will keep a close eye on these clones to see if any mildew develops and I'll spray them in necessary. I made mostly Phantom clones, but I also have Abusive, Bubba, No-Q and GSC.
The total amount of clones is more than I've probably ever had. I only need an assortment of 50-60 (20 per room) and I have close to two hundred, if not more. A rooting rate of about 25% is necessary to maintain constant production levels.
MASTER (Start week 7)
Colas are smaller than usual, and attempting to SCROG the overly tall trees did not help production. I moved the fan to circulate air underneath the canopy rather than around it. I also noticed that the AC timer was set to turn on three hours earlier than required, but I doubt this had any huge effect on the production. A major concern, however, is that many of the colas that are getting adequate light are still not showing any major development. I suspect that watering too much could be an issue. Mildew is a constant uphill battle in this room, particularly due to the high number of Bubba trees. Spraying with fungicide only keeps the spread contained, but it isn't eradicating the problem. I suspect that the wider pots I used for this bloom cycle is drying out due to the increased surface area of the soil, thus adding humidity to the room and stimulating mildew growth. For now, I'm going to have to set up the dehumidifier to run constantly, attaching a drainage line to the toilet in the bathroom.
MIDDLE (Start week 3)
Colas have just begun to develop. Vertical growth has stopped for the most part and many of the trees don't reach the second trellis. The density of the canopy is seemingly good for yield, but this may be a problem if mildew spreads inside of the canopy. Fortunately the wall fan is moving the air adequately around the canopy. I was forced to raise the back left corner light to its peak, which means that the trees underneath that light are at an ideal height. It's worth noting that one of those trees is Abusive, and wasn't SCROG'd like most of the other trees. In fact, the GG towards the front of the canopy that wasn't SCROG'd is also showing decent growth, despite the fact that it was an undersized tree that had to be boosted by an extra foot or so. The most heavily SCROG'd trees are under the front right light, and I will watch this area of the canopy closely to examine the effect that the SCROG method has had.
Notes on SCROG
SCROG isn't working for a variety of reasons:
-SCROG requires training throughout veg and the beginning of bloom
-SCROG requires fewer, smaller trees
-SCROG requires that each individual branch is supported or tied down
Without these requirements, attempting SCROG will only hurt my yields. In hindsight, I imagine that without SCROG, I would have tall, albeit fuller, trees with average sized colas regardless of how the trees came in from veg. Most of these trees had 3 or more heads, which would have been enough considering vertical height during the beginning of bloom would have allowed for lower branches to reach the canopy anyway. The concern was that these trees were stripped of lower branches when they first entered bloom, which left me with an inadequate number of cola sites to begin with, but emphasis should be placed on light distribution rather than plant manipulation. Instead of bending the entire tree off to the side and hoping that sub branches will grow out, trees should only be bent outwards from their centers in a "menorah" formation.
Trimming is also a tricky part of SCROG. Most other growers show a canopy of only about one foot thickness, whereas my past heavy yields have been with canopies of about 2-3 feet thickness without SCROG. Considering the size of the trellis/frame, I'm limited to about 9 square feet of surface area of light, but with a thicker canopy I'm able to multiply my yield even further. If I can find an exception to this, it will be with the front right light in the middle room, where there is a high density of top cola sites. I'm refraining from trimming to see if the density of the canopy will show favorable results.
Sunday, November 29, 2015
Starting from scratch
Due to negligence on my part and other circumstances, my yields have dropped significantly over the past year. I have a shortage of plants for the next bloom cycle. A few problems have also arisen:
CLONES
Clones have become a huge nuisance. I would estimate that only 25% of the clones I cut survive to root, whereas the remaining 75% succumb to a variety of problems. The most troublesome aspect of not having all the clones root is that my selection of strains to plant is limited. As the problem persists, I'm limited to growing only the plants that survive, leaving me with a variety of unmarketable strains. Of the clones that do survive, many are not strong enough to grow quickly.
Action:
-Check pH of clone trays daily.
-Calibrate pH meter weekly.
-Record when clones are made and when they begin to root.
-Keep note of how humidity dome is used.
-Cut as many clones as possible while favoring stronger cuts.
POWDERY MILDEW
The mildew problem has gotten worse despite regular application of fungicide. This hasn't affected yield nearly as much as any other problem right now, but Bubba seems to be affected the most in terms of marketability because of the density of mildew at harvest.
Action:
-Direct fans to adequately control air flow.
-Utilize carbon filters to reduce spread.
-Reduce humidity as much as possible by utilizing dehumidifiers.
-Purchase a water line for the Master dehumidifier to allow for continuous operation.
YIELD
Yield is paramount to this grow. Without adequate yield, business will continue to operate at a loss. The highest yield this year was in September, when I hit 4.5. Some key factors to consider regarding high yield:
-High yielding strains
-Strong veg WITHOUT attempting to scrog
-Consistent monitoring of pH
-Introduction of Overdrive late 4th week, usually during harvest of opposite room
-Early topping in veg (at least 2 weeks prior to bloom)
-Monitor moisture levels in soil
TRANSPLANTING
A strong, reliable system of transplanting has been absent from this grow in the past few months. Finding the right system to accommodate for the timing has been difficult, as there hasn't been a standard approach so far. I have been relying on transplanting impulsively rather than by a specific schedule, which has resulted in inconsistent sizes of plants entering bloom. I have to examine possible transplanting schedules and using the right pots to fit that schedule so that soil doesn't become dry in less than two days. I cannot use anything other than net cups for the T5 since I won't be able to fit enough to transplant.
Starting with the clones I'm waiting to root, I have possible schedules ahead of me, going from small veg to big veg to bloom:
Net cups > PW Mid > PW Heavy
This method seems like the most balanced, as it would allow me to fit at least 32 net cups under the T5. The PW Mid pots don't require as much soil as a standard pot and I would be able to choose up to 25 plants to fit on the table. I can also expand to a 4x8 table and utilize a middle row, which would allow me to put at least 55 total under 1750 watts. Given enough clones survive to root, I would always have an adequate number of plants to choose from. I am experimenting this method at the moment, and it is showing promising results, although I am concerned that the soil will be inadequate as the plants grow bigger towards the end of veg.
Net cups > Full Mid > Full Heavy
Although it would require another investment into another set of pots and increased soil use, the amount of soil would be adequate for the entire veg cycle without dry soil problems. One major concern is that the newer pots are wider, thereby taking more of the tray surface and leaving me with a smaller number of trees to prepare for bloom.
SCHEDULING
If I open up the third bloom room and place two more lights, I would need at least another 10-20 trees to fill the space. With the Master fully utilized at 30 trees under 6000 watts and the Middle with 20 under 4000, that would be a total of around 60-70 trees, meaning I need to veg about 30 per cycle for each room. In this case, I could treat the third room as filler for extra trees that come in between the two monthly harvests or, ideally, treat the extra two lights in the third room as an extension of the middle room and supply an equal number of plants as the master.
However, the problem is that placing merely 10 extra trees under 2000 watts may not justify the use of the room. Supplying 30 per room is also difficult given the limited space I'm given on the grow trays in veg; each tray allows for up to 25 medium sized PW pots. I would either have to downsize my pots to accommodate for more trees or simply use the extra two lights to veg extra trees in preparation for a bloom, which could be costly if it takes too long.
For now, I will concentrate on hitting the right yields with the lights I'm currently using, and I will prepare myself for a potential expansion with the clones I've made and will make in the next week. Following the action plans I've made, most of my problems should be gradually rectified. I plan on making a significant number of clones this week, which will be better quality than the clones I made last week.
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